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WINNER OF THE PULITZER PRIZE FOR BIOGRAPHY 2016 WINNER OF THE 2016 WILLIAM HILL SPORTS BOOK OF THE YEAR PRIZE Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life. William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment.
Achat du livre
Barbarian days : a surfing life, William Finnegan
- Langue
- Année de publication
- 2015
- product-detail.submit-box.info.binding
- (souple)
Modes de paiement
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- Langue
- Anglais
- Auteurs
- William Finnegan
- Éditeur
- Corsair
- Publié
- 2015
- Format
- souple
- Pages
- 512
- ISBN10
- 1472151410
- ISBN13
- 9781472151414
- Séries
- Mots clés
- Nonfiction, Cartes et voyages, Histoires vraies, Biographies, Voyage, Aventure, Sport, Autobiographies et mémoires, Sport & Activités de plein air, Amitié, États-Unis, Voyage, Biographies de sportifs, Mers et océans, Passion, Surf
- Évaluation
- 4,25 sur 5
- Description
- WINNER OF THE PULITZER PRIZE FOR BIOGRAPHY 2016 WINNER OF THE 2016 WILLIAM HILL SPORTS BOOK OF THE YEAR PRIZE Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life. William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment.