William Finnegan Livres

Now in paperback and updated to include forty new entries, this "leviathan of surf literature" (Surfing magazine) is a remarkable collection of expert knowledge, spine-tingling stories, and little-known trivia. With 1,500 alphabetical entries and 300 illustrations, The Encyclopedia of Surfing is the most comprehensive review of the people, places, events, equipment, vernacular, and lively history of this fascinating sport by "one of surfing's most knowledgeable historians" (San Francisco Chronicle). Each year, the surf industry brings in $4.5 billion, and more than two-and-a-half million Americans, from California to Delaware, have caught the wave. The Encyclopedia of Surfing is a book that no surfer-or armchair adventurer-will be able to resist.

This groundbreaking work of social journalism highlights a population often overlooked. William Finnegan observes that while the national economy grows, the prospects for most Americans are dimming, leading to a new, harsher class structure. The focus is on families struggling to adapt, particularly their teenagers and young adults, as they navigate this challenging environment. Finnegan immerses himself in the lives of families across four American communities, capturing poignant portraits: a fifteen-year-old drug dealer in New Haven, a Texas town transformed by crack, Mexican American teens in Washington State caught between cultures and gang identities, and jobless young white supremacists in a declining L.A. suburb. This exploration of race, class, and social change maintains a deep respect for the humanity of its subjects. The young individuals portrayed are complex and multifaceted, evoking both sympathy and frustration. Finnegan's work transcends mere reportage, revealing the economic trends and political decisions that have contributed to a society marked by growing inequality and cultural alienation. Important and compassionate, this book offers a powerful glimpse into a present that foreshadows our future.

Surfing transcends mere sport; for enthusiasts, it embodies a beautiful addiction, a demanding pursuit, and a way of life. Finnegan, raised in California and Hawaii, began surfing as a child and has since chased waves worldwide, from the South Pacific to Africa. His journey unfolds through the lens of a writer and war reporter, revealing the edgy camaraderie of male friendships forged in challenging surf. He recounts experiences in a whites-only gang at a tough Honolulu school, alongside his close friendship with a native Hawaiian surfer. The narrative captures the upheaval of the 1960s, detailing the intricacies of famous waves and his own learning experiences. Youthful folly is humorously depicted, including a memorable LSD trip while surfing Honolua Bay. Alongside a friend, they navigate Polynesia with reef charts in tow, discovering one of the world's greatest waves on an uninhabited Fijian island. As his travels expand, Finnegan becomes an unlikely anthropologist, exploring the complexities of a Samoan fishing village, the sexual dynamics of Tongan interactions with foreigners, and the Indonesian black market, all while battling malaria. His adventures are punctuated by the thrill of surfing, highlighting the sport's profound impact on his life.