Drusilla Beyfus Livres

'Valentissimo! Viva Valentino!' exclaimed Vogue, lauding the achievements of the first Italian dress designer to take on the Paris fashion world and achieve haute couture status. Drawing on Vogue's archive of imagery and text, as well as the author's exclusive interview with the designer, this book analyses Valentino's exceptional fusion of Latinate sensuality and Parisian precision. It shows how his inventive colour sense and use of opulent fabrics derived from Italian classical painting, and how his trust in and promotion of Italy's craftsmen and women is evident in his use of featherweight materials, handmade embroidery, beading and pleating. Valentino's early love of costumes worn by stars of the Italian and American film industry influenced his designs, and he attracted a superstar clientele, including Hollywood celebrities from Elizabeth Taylor to Gwyneth Paltrow, European royalty, and society figures such as Jaqueline Kennedy - who wore him in mourning, and in remarriage, at her wedding to Aristotle Onassis. Valentino is unique: the exquisite quality of his dressmaking and the femininity, glamour and allure of his seasonal collections are matchless; exceptionally in his field, he is known by his first name only; and he holds a record as the founder of a house who remained in creative control of it for 45 years.

'Das Kleid muss sich der Silhouette der Frau anpassen, nicht die Silhouette der Frau dem Kleid.' (Hubert de Givenchy) Heiter, schlicht, klar – unverkennbar Givenchy: Eine umfassende Geschichte des 'wahren Chic'. Der Erfinder des Audrey-Hepburn-Looks ist seit 40 Jahren eine Ikone unter den Modedesignern. Die Designs des aristokratischen Modeschöpfers Hubert de Givenchy verzahnen auf zuvor unbekannte Art und Weise Tradition und Moderne der Haute Couture. Sein Markenzeichen blieb dabei die klare Linie. 'Unprätentiös glamourös' waren seine Entwürfe, sachlich-schlicht und dennoch meist in starken Farben. Dazu kamen riesige Hüte, die oft das Gesicht verdeckten. Er war es, der den Look von Audrey Hepburn – man denke an 'Sabrina' und 'Frühstück bei Tiffany' – prägte, ebenso wie den der US-amerikanischen First Lady Jackie Kennedy. Über ihn schrieb die Vogue: 'Er verleiht einer Frau das Aussehen eines Stars, romantisch und hinreißend, selbst wenn ihr Herz gerade am Zerbrechen ist.'